Question: how to find and replace?

How do I make find and replace work?  Currently the replace and find button is grayed out.  What magic gets me into a state where the button can be used?


P.S. Is there any "package" or "mode" or way some how that emacs key bindings can be made to work (including things like find and replace)?  The user interface would be much improved if I knew how to enable that.

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